Huascarán National Park
Hands down one of the most incredible days of cycling on this trip. I’ll try to let the pictures do most of the talking.
I had caught up with Greg in Huaraz, and Torrey and Lucie, who I met in Trujillo, had made it there as well, so we headed out together. Â South, upvalley for a little while then the turnoff on a gravel road into the park.
The uphill didn’t seem terrible but we weren’t moving too fast either, the altitude was certainly getting to us. Â So we called it a day about a mile before the ranger’s station at around 4,100m (13,500 feet). Â That night it got just below freezing, the first time for me since February in Mil Cumbres near Morelia, Mexico. Â But the next morning the sun was up and there were little clouds, so the weather was perfect for biking.
More photos below
Lots of snowcapped peaks whose names I didn’t catch.
The area is known for being the home to the Puya Raimondi, a bromeliad (same family as a pineapple), and found only at altitudes between 3,200 and 4,800 meters in a few places in Peru and Bolivia. Â They live for many decades, and in their last stage of life, grow a huge spike that flowers, then dies.
Each plant has thousands of flowers and millions of seeds, which I’m guessing is a necessity, as very few of these seeds will make it as a new generation in the harsh climates.
The dead plants were just as captivating as the live ones. Â These hooks are known to take sheep captive.
Glimpses of glaciers and snowcapped peaks hidden behind layers and layers of mountains. Â The Cordillera Blanca is the birthplace of many Peruvian rivers.
Up and up.
And up. Â You can see Lucie and Torrey on the road.
Very few people in the park, but a noticeable presence of stone walls to keep flocks of sheep.
Evidence of civilization from many centuries ago.
The air was getting thin, which made stopping every few minutes necessary but also meant time to just stare in disbelief at the formations all around us.
Nearing the top of the first pass.
This is some people’s workplace, watching flocks of sheep. Â I can’t image living at these altitudes.
Almost to the top.
After the first pass, a downhill into a valley with pristine streams and huge tufts of moss.
The afternoon light was disappearing, clouds setting in. Â But I still had to climb back up to 16,000 feet. Â Icicles clinging to glaciers creaked and came splintering down the slope. Â Probably not the best time of day to bike under here.
Finally, at the top, the Continental Divide, at a dizzying 16,000 feet (4,884m), with a few minutes to soak in the views. Â See video from previous post for some rather uninspiring commentary.
Off in the distance, clouds were releasing rain and snow. Â A few flurries made it over to me, I knew it was time to get out of there!
Out of the park and on to a new highway that took us from 4,700 m down to the town of Huallanca at 3,500 meters. Â So exhausted that even sleep was not restful.
A few packs of FRAC, Oreo wannabes, to replenish some calories.
I’ll link to Greg, and Lucie and Torrey’s blog about the day once they post.
Matt, these are amazing photos and such an amazing journey you are taking. I remember hardly being able to deal with the altitude on a bus up through the Cordillera. Keep up the good pedaling!
I guess with a bike it is a little different as you can only go upwards so fast, and have a little more time to get used to the altitude.
stunning!
Unbelievable! Great Pictures.
Oh, the places you’ve been! Breathtaking!
Hi Matt,
That stretch of road was my favorite in all of Peru. It was the only place were I truly felt alone. I am wondering if you carry a gps or how you knew your highest point was 4,884m? I´ve seen other peoples blogs say 4,850, 4,830m and my bike computer with altimeter (not the most accurate, but is within +/- 100m only registered 4,775m. Where´d you get the info?
Thanks,
Tyson
Oops, nevermind. I just saw your asterick and the disclaimer where you got the info.
I should have probably taken an average from all the GPS readings out there, but 4884m happens to be just over 16,000 feet. =)
Truly beautiful, thanks for sharing.
Wow. The cordillera blanca is something else!
Great pics…you are quite a guy!! keep enjoying all the beauty! pray for you often!
dizzy, marvelous, ,,,,,special time. Thank you for sharing
Hey Matt
Have you heard from Greg at all? He’s about 3 days overdue on contact.
Susan
Greg OK Matt. Rougher trip than he expected
WHOA!!!! Those winding roads are crazy!!!!’ the light in the photos looks so eerie… Like storm is about to start any minute. I’m always, always amazed.
STAY SAFE!!